The first device to be talked about as a revolutionary breakthrough in the field of cosmetology in St. Petersburg was the ThermaCool – a first-generation device for deep skin lifting. The procedures realized on it are respectively called “thermal therapy” (the thermage, patented name), or thermal lifting, or radio wave lifting. In the West, it has been known about since 2002 and they say that its miraculous effect is the reason for the youth and beauty of such stars as Demi Moore and Linda Evangelista. In St. Petersburg, this technology was introduced only the year before last. It is hard to say why our cosmetologists had hesitated so long before buying the machines already tested by our foreign colleagues and their patients five years ago. Maybe they were waiting for the long-term results of the procedure to avoid risking their reputation? In any case, by the time we had the opportunity to get a fantastic rejuvenating effect using radio waves, similar devices of the second and third-generation appeared, so that now we can choose from a variety of methods.

The first, but not the only

Collagen - the main structural component of dermis, responsible for skin elasticity - i.e. for the lack of wrinkles and mimic folds – ages along with the entire organism. The skin loses its elasticity because collagen fibers, the natural invisible frame, start to stretch, and the amount of so-called “young,” “useful” collagen decreases. The “thermal therapy” performed on the ThermaCool unit affects precisely these fibers with the help of radio wave energy with a high frequency of 6 MHz, achieving a temperature rise in deep layers of skin of up to 65 degrees. Under the thermal influence the anfractuous collagen fibers condense, become thicker and contract, lifting the tissues, where they serve as the basis. The connecting fibers of hypodermic fat cellular tissue have “high conductivity”, so that radio frequency energy penetrates into the deeper layers of skin, providing the enforcement of the tissues from the inside. The development of new collagen fibers is stimulated in the dermis and the connective fibers of the hypodermis instead of the weak and overstretched old ones. This process lasts six months or more, which is to say that the effect that is already evident after the first procedure is not the limit. The skin and deeper tissues are reenforced in turn by the principle of the “domino effect”, and the therapy result significantly increases to the end of the process. Some specialists affirm that it remains for up to 5 years or more, depending on the initial state of the skin and its physiological characteristics. Plastic surgeons recommend thermal therapy after various surgical interventions - for example, liposuction or circular face lifting: the procedure helps to condense skin that became thinner after the operation. Any radio frequency device has a wide range of working nozzles. The cosmetologist, depending on the zone and the individual characteristics of the patient’s skin, determines the choice in each case. The depth and intensity of the exposure are regulated by the device settings during the procedure. Moreover, the device itself ensures the safety of the patient through an electronic control system - each nozzle is used only once. The thermage is a single procedure, and there lies its advantage over all the other hardware techniques, including those based on the effects of radio waves. So, one should only spend from 30 minutes to 2 hours on it, depending on the size of the area of skin on the face or body, and the rejuvenating effect is provided for several years.

The second but not the least 

The thermal therapy method refers to monopolar techniques. Its alternative is the second-generation radio frequency devices - the bipolar systems (Aluma). To those who are familiar with the basic physics the principle is clear: the monopolar technology uses one electrode, and the current passes through the whole body, the bipolar one uses two electrodes, and the current passes between them, creating an electric field in a limited area. The effect of both devices (just like the third-generation units) is essentially based on the same principle - a deep thermal influence on the protein structures of skin and the collagen fibers. However, the procedure using the Aluma device combines radio frequency and vacuum effects at the same time, allowing the radio wave energy to penetrate the strictly specified area of skin, excluding the effect of radio waves on the organism in general. The vacuum sensor of the device sends radio frequency energy directly into the problem area which allows for a reduction in the temperature down to 40 degrees during the procedure on the face. And that makes it more comfortable - and what’s more, with such a heat impact the normal collagen stays preserved, and only the damaged one is destroyed. At the same time the young collagen responsible for skin elasticity is actively synthesized. Unlike the “thermage”, the procedure on the Aluma unit uses a current with a lower frequency, so one procedure is not enough. To achieve a persistent rejuvenating effect, 4-6 procedures are necessary, taken at intervals of 1-2 weeks.

The third and tripolar

The development of new technology is happening so fast that, along with the devices of the first and second generation, in St. Petersburg the third generation of these machines is already available - ReGen (Tripolar). It is a trielectrode (tripolar) system, and is free of the disadvantages of the first and second-generation units. Its indubitable merit is even greater comfort in the procedures, and there is no need for a cooling system and the ability (thanks to the presence of three electrodes) to control the depth of the exposure. The main targets are still the dermis and hypodermic fat cellular tissues. When heated, the collagen spiral is undone, thus increasing in length and volume. Heating also leads to the distension of vessels and metabolism improvement, which provides an immediate (“just out of the bath”) lifting effect. The delayed effects occur after 6-8 procedures as a result of the shortening of the collagen fibers later on, causing a decrease of the skin area and enhancing its vigor. Mechanical and thermal exposure stimulates the splitting of the excess fat (lipolysis), as well as the functioning of the lymphatic system, that contributes to a more rapid removal of the metabolism products. ReGen allows for the carrying out of several different procedures. Apart from the RF-lifting of the face and neck skin, leading to a gradual reduction of the skin area by 10-12% (which can be compared to a surgical lifting), it is used for the RF-lipolysis aimed at removing excess fatty deposits. Combined with RF-lifting, RF-lipolysis gives a good effect in restoring the oval of the face. RF-lifting and RF-lipolysis are used to enhance the elasticity of skin and to reduce the volumes of problem areas in the body, as well as for the treatment of cellulitis. The effect increases for 6 months, and the skin gets a powerful boost to the regeneration and rejuvenation.

On the wave of my youth

The appearance of the radio wave devices shows us that hardware cosmetology is stepping up to a qualitatively new level: thanks to them, the procedures - in comparison with other technologies – are easily done and comfortable for the patient. Radio lifting (especially on the “friendly” temperature units) does not require rehabilitation, one can return to work right after it, the procedure has no restrictions on the time of year and may be performed on any skin color and type (oily, mixed and dry). RF techniques are effective for all parts of the body. Even after the first treatment the improvement in face color, smoothed folds and wrinkles are noticeable, and later the effect does not disappear, but it becomes even more apparent. Thanks to the wonderful opportunities of this technology one can transform the face, neck, chest area, buttocks, knees, abdomen, inner thighs, shoulders and forearms. This procedure is called an alternative to plastic surgery, but that's not quite correct, because the surgery can remove excess skin, but is not able to change its quality, to deal with wrinkles. As a result of radio wave impact the skin does not only decrease: it is enforced, it smoothes out and becomes more elastic. In addition, there are areas on which it is impossible to hide the traces of the scalpel, and classical cosmetology correction has made poor progress in this area. These are the inner side of the forearm or the thigh. For those whose skin on the hands and feet in these places has become flabby and saggy, radio-frequency rejuvenation technology a genuine salvation. Through its use, now they can easily feel comfortable both in a revealing top or a bikini. How much time and money will be spent on the procedure? It all depends on what you want “improved.” Thus, the price for one procedure of face radio lifting (including the area around the eyes) with the ThermaCool unit at Stimul is about 98 - 160 thousand rubles, at “MediEstetik” - around 90 - 125 thousand. Pulling up the abdomen skin, as well as any other part of the body - such as thighs - can be done at MediEstetik for 250 thousand rubles, at Stimul - for 160. The Aluma unit price of the procedures around the city differs greatly. For example, at the Medical Center Kosmet face thermal lifting will cost you 7 thousand rubles, and at the Amorim center - about 15 thousand, a correction of abdominal skin will cost 13 and 17 thousand rubles respectively. At the Oksana Volkova Medical Cosmetology Center the procedure for face thermal lifting on the ReGen Tripolar costs from 5 200 rubles, and on the abdomen from 2 800.

FACE WELL IRONED

Notes of an advertisement victim

Inwardly we all are a bit of “stanislavskian”: as yet another advertising campaign on instant rejuvenation “without effort and negatives consequences” is unleashed, the majority of us are ready to cry out loud “ I don’t believe it!”

Seeing is believing

However, for journalists it’s so much easier. If the new method (medication, remedy, technology) indeed is worth advertising, then the specialists promoting the method are unlikely to refuse to allow us to test the novelty on a volunteer writing guinea-pig. But you’ll no doubt agree that the “guinea-pig” needs either a trust in the new product (or the one who offers it) or a certain amount of bravery. With non-surgical and non-invasive methods you at least don’t have anything  cut off - or even injected – so the risk of course is minimal. But belief in miracles, too, barely glimmers: well, if everything is indeed so painless and innocent, why would thousands of people go for expensive plastic surgery, condemning themselves to suffering, prolonged “wounds licking” and the insane expense? And all of this with a result that is not always certain? Here you begin to start asking yourself: Where’s the catch? So, once again I was ready for a heroic deed in the name of truth. This isn’t the first time. Once, writing about endermology, I became addicted to “skin tonic” and LPG (which, by the way, I still believe to be the most effective technique). I also had to inject Botox in my forehead, and the latter indeed for a few months stayed smooth. But the long-term, “psychological” consequences of “Botox” with me even today: I can’t stop examining closely all the suspiciously smooth foreheads of actors and TV hosts...

Iron, but not burn

The radio wave technique seduced me with the “innocence” of the procedure: no painful sensations, and the temperatures were promised to be almost physiological. Well, after all, I didn’t die of a 40 degree temperature when I had flu once, and that was all over the body - and in the case of ReGen Tripolar RF-procedure it only affects the face. And we already cover that with all sorts of make-up and are forever leaving it out in the sun! And quite often that not too good for the skin! In general, I “signed up” to the new method willingly. The 6-8 visits to the salon didn’t frighten me. There was no rush in my fall work schedule, and to find some 20-30 minutes once a week is possible even for a very busy person. Oh yes, and the horizontal position with the pleasant “massager” for me personally, is one of the few ways to relax. All in all, everything was fine. The round nozzle for thermal influence was hot but not scalding. The movement itself was light, with a pleasant and slight pressure. From time to time, when the temperature increased, a quiet “chmok-chpok” could be heard - a hot electrode switch. Among the unpleasant sensations only an occasional tingle can be mentioned when some hair, that conducts heat better than skin, got in the way of the device. (By the way, to all those interested in face ironing I suggest removing unwanted hair before the procedure - whether it’s be carefully plucked women's eyebrows or slightly overgrown male bristles).

Promised is for six months of waiting

Now to the results. The effect of “instant lifting” after the first procedure, indeed, is impressive. The skin becomes smooth, pink - and there is a strong desire to go straight from the salon to a party to surprise everybody. However, it doesn’t last long - after a couple of days, the primary effect is smoothened, while the face still looks better than before the procedure. Another fairly quick result is the disappearance of the bags around the eyes and the unnecessary skin on the upper eyelids. Mine started to lift after the first procedure, and after the second it became noticeable to the people around. After 3-4 procedures the doggy folds spoiling the oval of the face pulled up significantly, and the double chin became smaller. Here are all the achievements - but there were only 5 procedures, and that’s just over half. But the process, as it’s said, has started. And there is a wish to believe the silver-tongued expert beauticians, who promise that this is only the beginning, and after six months I’ll start being recognized by my primary school classmates...

Ksenia Klementyeva, dermatologist-beautician, head of department, MediEstetik cosmetology clinic Thermal therapy is very popular among those who want to look younger after one procedure, but are not ready for surgery. This “non-surgical lifting” of the skin of the face and body gives an instant lifting effect: right after the procedure the skin pulls up and becomes fitter, even deep wrinkles smooth out. During the next 6 months the process of rejuvenation is developed. I see how noticeable the effect on patients who took the therapy a year ago is - the oval of the face has pulled up, the eyebrows have become slightly raised, nasal and lip folds smoothed, the neck and décolleté skin structure improved. Even after 5 years, the patient is supposed to look better than before the procedure. The effect of the thermal lifting is aimed at the traditional problem areas: the inner surface of the shoulder, forearms, thighs, knees and buttocks. Thermal therapy is effective for abdominal skin lifting after giving birth, liposuction and weight loss, as well as age-related changes and cellulite. The procedure is safe and does not require anesthesia. The influence of the radio frequency energy excludes irritation, inflammation and scarring of the skin. The golden plated nozzle is equipped with sensors that control the temperature of the skin, the depth and the intensity of exposure to the radio frequency energy and also protects the upper layers of skin from overheating.

Elena Mamontova, dermato-cosmetologist, GrandMed clinic: Certainly, the procedures of the radio wave therapy open up new possibilities for rapid rejuvenation of modern women (men, too, should not be forgotten - they are turning to cosmetologists more and more often). However, one should keep in mind that any aging skin requires a combined treatment, because it’s aging due to many factors: dehydration, lower tone, flabby tissues, etc. Therefore, to rely only on one method, though progressive, is wrong. The main trend in modern cosmetology is a combination of different methods, based on the skin type and skin problems of a specific person. Such an approach gives more pronounced and longer-lasting results. In our clinic there are special programs for skin rejuvenation combining radio and photo therapy. They can be complemented with a course of deep moisturizing procedures - biorevitalization (IAL-system) or Botox injections. We should not forget that lip changes due to age can’t be treated with RF-therapy, but it is possible for contour plastic surgery. With the help of some special filler-remedies the contour of the lips can be improved and their volume increased, which leads to the smoothening of the folds and saturation with color. The combination of hardware and injecting methods gives a qualitatively new rejuvenation effect.

Svetlana Lebedeva, dermato-cosmetologist, physiotherapist, head of hardware cosmetology department, Beauty Institute SPIK at Savushkina st. We have tried many techniques to rejuvenate the skin, and we believe that effective treatment can only be offered by an experienced doctor. Early age-related changes can be successfully eliminated by micro-current therapy. This includes classical procedures as well as the application of improved micro-currents with the Beautytek unit. The unit aligns the energetic potential of the cell, responding to the areas of the energy deficit, and creates an individual treatment program on its own. For the manifestation of the gravitational ptosis (the facial tissues drawing down) cosmechanic procedures on the unit Lift-6 will be useful. The method combines a measured vacuum influence with a delicate massage and effective lymphatic drainage. With expressed age-related changes help can be provided by the Tripolar thermal lifting unit, which has already proved to be a very effective method giving noticeable results in short periods of time. In addition, I’d like to highlight a unique Titan device. It produces a flash of the infrared spectrum, leading to an intense warming of the medium layers of skin and restoration of the collagen fiber structure. Its impact, judging by results, is beyond comparison with plastic surgery. To achieve the effect you only need one procedure, and depending on the results it can be repeated after three months. The procedure is comfortable and does not require rehabilitation.

Oksana Volkova, PhD, chief medical officer of the Oksana Volkova Medical Cosmetology Center: Of the existence of “thermal therapy” we learned long before its appearance in our city: these devices were widely advertised at various exhibitions. We got interested in the method, but being cautious and responsible people, we decided to wait for some proven results. We waited for 2 years and by that time the 3rd generation device ReGen Tripolar was released, which attracted us with its softer impact and the higher levels of comfort for the procedures. Now, half a year after the start of its use, we can confidently say that we were not mistaken. We ourselves were surprised by some results - for example, on the eyelids, which are known to be especially difficult to handle. Only six months ago we used to say: we correct everything but the upper eyelids - they needed an operation, but now we have a method that is able to at least compete with lifting, without stretching the already thin eyelid skin. Another surprise – the fact that the procedure of thermal lifting has become very popular among men. As most of them devote less time to their appearance than women, on their faces, untouched by cosmetic technology, this procedure gives simply remarkable results. And not only on faces - a variety of nozzles allow the use of the ReGen Tripolar for procedures all over the body.